| T-shirt manufacturers use many terms to describe | | | | haven't taken any real steps to be environmentally |
| their products. The terms are not always consistent | | | | responsible. |
| and it helps to have a reference guide. | | | | Hand: The way a fabric feels to the touch. A fabric |
| The following is the official Green Man T-Shirts Guide | | | | that feels soft and smooth is considered to have a |
| to understanding t-shirt terms: | | | | good hand. |
| 20s, 20/1, 20s single: Unit of measurement that | | | | Hemp Fabric: Hemp, or Cannabis sativa, has been |
| defines the fineness of cotton thread. A standard | | | | used for fabric for thousands of years, mostly as an |
| spool of single-ply cotton thread is comprised of 840 | | | | industrial fabric. Newer processing methods have |
| yards of cotton thread. If it takes 20 spools to | | | | made it suitable for finer clothing, and now it is used |
| weigh one pound, then the thread on those spools is | | | | in many clothing articles, including t-shirts. Hemp is |
| referred to as 20s cotton, or 20/1. If 30 spools | | | | valued for its strength and durability. |
| weigh one pound, then the thread on those spools is | | | | Henley T-Shirt: Similar to a collarless polo shirt, a |
| referred to as 30s cotton thread, or 30/1. If it takes | | | | Henley is a pullover t-shirt featuring 2 or 3 buttons |
| 40 spools to weigh one pound, then the thread on | | | | (sometimes up to 5 buttons are used, but that's |
| those spools is referred to as 40s cotton, or 40/1. | | | | uncommon). A Henley can be either short or long |
| The higher number means a finer thread, and thus a | | | | sleeved. |
| finer, softer fabric is created. T-shirts made of 30s | | | | Ice Wash: A method of stone washing where the |
| and 40s are softer, finer, and have better drape than | | | | stones are first soaked in a solution of potassium |
| t-shirts made of 20s. The terms are used many | | | | permanganate. This method produces a frosted |
| ways, but it's the number that counts; "20s," "20/1," | | | | appearance to fabric. |
| and "20 singles" are the same. Threads can be | | | | Interlock Knit: A type of knit that is very soft and |
| twisted together into thicker strands. If two 20/1 | | | | has a good drape. Interlock knit stitches are tighter, |
| cotton threads were twisted together, it would be | | | | more stretchy than Jersey knit, but less stretchy |
| referred to as 20/2. | | | | than rib knit. Used in very fine garments. |
| Bamboo Fabric: Rayon made from bamboo cellulose. | | | | Jersey Knit: Commonly found in t-shirts and is the |
| Although rayon is a man-made synthetic material, | | | | most durable of knits. It is light weight, and has fine |
| most experts agree it is readily biodegradable. | | | | vertical ribs. The Jersey knit was named after the |
| Bamboo fabric is extremely soft and has excellent | | | | British Island in the English Channel. Fine cotton Jersey |
| drape. | | | | refers to Jersey Knit made with fine cotton threads |
| Bamboo: Fast growing plant, classified as a grass, | | | | such as 30s and 40s. |
| which can be readily processed into rayon to make | | | | Knit: Defines how the interlocking loops of yarn that |
| bamboo rayon clothing. | | | | make up fabric were made. There are many types |
| Bleach Wash: A process that uses bleach to soften | | | | of knits. Jersey Knit is commonly found in t-shirts and |
| and distress the look of the fabric being washed. | | | | is the most durable of knits. It is light weight, and has |
| Boat Neck: A very wide neckline that runs across the | | | | fine vertical ribs. On the other hand, rib knits have |
| collarbone area to the shoulder points. Derives from | | | | heavy ribs running down the fabric, while interlock |
| early sailors' shirts, where the wide neck enabled | | | | knits are used in very fine fabrics. T-shirt collars are |
| quick removal if the sailor fell overboard. | | | | usually rib knit. |
| Boy Beater: Women's fashion answer to the wife | | | | Muscle Shirt: Sleeveless style t-shirt, but not exactly a |
| beater. A women's tank top, although it can be any | | | | tank top. Basic t-shirt, just without the sleeves. The |
| color. | | | | shoulder strap portion is much wider than an ordinary |
| Brushed Cotton: A method to remove excess lint and | | | | tank top. |
| fibers from cotton fabric. Brushed cotton usually has | | | | Neck Tape: A thin strip of fabric sewn over the |
| a very soft, smooth finish. | | | | seam running across the shoulders and neck area. It |
| Burn-Out: A process that uses sulfuric acid or other | | | | covers the seam and looks better than an exposed |
| strong acid to "burn-out" parts of a fabric knit, usually | | | | stitch. Often referred to as "shoulder to shoulder |
| a polyester/cotton blend. The process gives a | | | | taped." |
| see-through, very sheer effect. | | | | OekoTek 100: Certification from the International |
| Cap Sleeves: Usually refers to shorter sleeves on | | | | Oeko-Tex® Association, which assures consumers |
| women's garments. | | | | that the apparel they buy is chemical free and poses |
| Carbon Dioxide: CO2. A chemical compound | | | | no risk to their health. Under the Oeko-Tex standard, |
| composed of two oxygen atoms and one carbon | | | | clothing must be free of formaldehyde, arsenic, lead, |
| atom. Known as a "greenhouse" gas because of its | | | | cadmium, and other toxic chemicals. |
| relationship with global warming. A few t-shirt | | | | Organic Apparel: A term very loosely applied in the |
| manufacturers are now measuring and recording the | | | | garment industry. It can mean anything from 100% |
| CO2 emissions involved in manufacturing their shirts. | | | | organic to as little as 6% organic. Often combined |
| Carbon Trust: Independent organization founded in | | | | with terms like Eco-Friendly, Green, and so on. |
| 2001 in Great Britain that monitors carbon emissions. | | | | Consumers must check the labels and verify the |
| The Carbon Trust works with companies to help | | | | materials used to see if something is truly organic or |
| reduce their carbon footprint, and now certifies | | | | not. |
| companies and products as having a "low carbon" or | | | | Organic Cotton: Cotton grown without the use of |
| "no carbon" footprint. A few t-shirt companies now | | | | pesticides. Certified organic cotton has been |
| manufacture "low carbon footprint" t-shirts. | | | | inspected to insure it truly is organic. |
| Carding: A fiber cleaning process that eliminates short | | | | Organic Soil Association: Founded in 1946 by a group |
| fibers and removes dirt and foreign matter. Carding | | | | of farmers, scientists and nutritionists concerned |
| can be done by hand or by large machines using | | | | about the relationship between farming practices and |
| drum rollers. Carded-only cotton is not as desirable as | | | | plant, animal, human, and environmental health. The |
| combed cotton. | | | | Organic Soil Association pioneered the first organic |
| Cellulase Wash: Another name for enzyme wash. This | | | | standards in 1967, and certifies farms and businesses |
| gives fabric a soft feel and a vintage look, depending | | | | that meet those standards. |
| on how the wash is done. | | | | Overdyed: A process where previously dyed |
| Cellulose: Derived from the cell walls of certain plants. | | | | garments or fabrics are dyed with an additional color |
| Useful in making certain types of fabrics, including | | | | to create a unique look. |
| acetate, triacetate, and rayon. Bamboo fabric is | | | | Performance T: Name for t-shirts manufactured for |
| actually rayon made from bamboo cellulose. | | | | athletes and outdoor enthusiasts. Performance Ts are |
| Cheap Cotton T-Shirt: T-shirts made with carded | | | | characterized by their breathability, moisture wicking, |
| cotton, using 18/1 thread, usually knitted on 20 gauge | | | | fast drying, and odor control capabilities. Many |
| machines. These t-shirts are coarse, rough, and have | | | | performance Ts are polyester/cotton blends, or can |
| poor drapability. Used often as cheap promotional | | | | also be 100% polyester. Bamboo t-shirts, due to their |
| give-aways. | | | | absorbency and wicking properties, have become |
| Climate Neutral: A term used to describe a company, | | | | known as performance t-shirts, although they do not |
| process, or product that has zero impact on the | | | | dry as fast as performance t-shirts made of 100% |
| Earth's climate. A few t-shirt manufacturers advertise | | | | polyester. |
| their company as climate neutral. | | | | PFD: Stands for Prepared For Dyeing. Sold this way |
| CO2: Carbon dioxide. A chemical compound | | | | to t-shirt customizers who want to create their own |
| composed of two oxygen atoms and one carbon | | | | look with dyes. |
| atom. Known as a "greenhouse" gas because of its | | | | Pigment Dyed: A type of dye that creates a washed |
| relationship with global warming. | | | | out, distressed look. |
| Colorfastness: The ability of a garment to withstand | | | | Pima Cotton: A cotton developed in the U.S. in the |
| multiple washings without losing its color. | | | | early 1900s to compete with Egyptian cotton. It |
| Combed Cotton: A method to remove short fibers | | | | features longer fibers and is used often in fine men's |
| and to arrange longer fibers parallel to create a | | | | and women's shirts. The name Pima comes from the |
| smooth, fine cotton yarn. Combed cotton has high | | | | Pima Indians, who helped with the first crops of the |
| strength, excellent uniformity, and better hand. | | | | new cotton as it was first grown in the U.S. |
| Combed cotton costs more and is used in finer | | | | Pique: A method of knitting that creates a |
| t-shirts. | | | | waffle-type, fine textured surface. Used often in polo |
| Compacting: A process that compacts the space | | | | shirts. |
| between cotton fiber pockets. Helps to reduce | | | | Polyester: Man-made fiber manufactured from |
| shrinking. | | | | synthetic polymers. Used widely in apparel, especially |
| Contrasting Stitching: Stitching with a different color | | | | combined with cotton in 50/50 blends. |
| than the garment. Gives a nice design detail in t-shirts. | | | | Pre-Shrunk: Refers to the process of pre-shrinking |
| Control Union: An international organization that offers | | | | fabric before it is cut and sewn. Occasionally it refers |
| certification services for a variety of | | | | to an actual finished garment that has been |
| programs--including many organic certification | | | | preshrunk. Clothing that has been preshrunk shrinks |
| programs. Certifies USDA Organic, as well as GOTS | | | | less once the buyer washes it. Preshrunk cotton |
| (Global Organic Textile Standard). | | | | t-shirts will still shrink a bit, however, especially if dried |
| Cotton Jersey: Knitted, very slightly stretchy fabric | | | | using a clothes dryer. |
| with a smooth flat face and a more textured but | | | | Raglan T-Shirt: Style of t-shirt featuring sleeves that |
| uniform back. Average weight per yard is about 5.5 | | | | run directly to the collar. Usually the sleeves are a |
| to 6 ounces. Basic t-shirts are made of cotton jersey. | | | | contrasting color from the body. Raglan sleeves are |
| Fine cotton jersey is usually smoother and has a | | | | wider under the arms, and are preferred by wearers |
| lighter weight per yard. | | | | who want maximum freedom of movement. Baseball |
| Cotton: A natural fiber that is the most popular in the | | | | t-shirts usually feature a raglan sleeve style. |
| world for fabrics. Cotton fibers are usually ½ to 2 | | | | Rayon: Man-made fiber that uses plant cellulose as its |
| inches long. Longer fibers produce finer cotton fabric. | | | | main ingredient. Rayon is very soft, has excellent |
| Varieties such as Pima and Egyptian, which feature | | | | drape, and is very absorbent. Originally developed as |
| fibers exceeding 1.5 inches, are more highly valued | | | | a silk substitute. |
| than ordinary varieties. | | | | Rib Knit: Characterized by heavy vertical ribs running |
| Crew Neck: A round close-fitting neckline. Most | | | | down the fabric. Rib knits are usually classified as 1x1, |
| common neck on t-shirts. | | | | 2x1 or 2x2. This lets you know the width of the rib |
| Crop Top: A shirt with a short body to it; made to | | | | compared to the space between. For example, a 1x1 |
| expose the midriff area. | | | | rib knit or a 2x2 rib knit means the space between |
| Double-Needle Stitched: Used mostly on sleeve | | | | each rib is the same width as the ribs. But a 2x1 rib |
| bottom hems and refers to a parallel row of stitching. | | | | knit means the ribs are twice as wide as the spaces |
| This type of stitching gives durability and a cleaner, | | | | in between. Rib knit is very stretchy and is often |
| more finished look. | | | | used for t-shirt collars, cuffs, and tank tops. |
| Drape, Drapability: Refers to how a fabric hangs. A | | | | Ring Spun: Refers to yarn made by twisting and |
| fabric like bamboo rayon has excellent drape, while a | | | | thinning a rope of cotton fibers. The continuous |
| coarse fabric like burlap has very little. T-shirts that | | | | spinning results in a softer feel and stronger yarn. |
| have good drape qualities feel nicer to wear. | | | | Ring-spun t-shirts are noticeably softer to the touch. |
| Drop Tail: A garment that features a longer back | | | | Ringer T: A t-shirt with colored sleeve bands and |
| than front. | | | | matching crew neck. Most ringers are white, with the |
| Eco-Friendly: Extremely loose term that refers to a | | | | armband sleeves and crew necks in various colors. |
| product's "greenness." Almost useless in realistically | | | | Sand Wash: Refers to using sand while washing a |
| assessing a product. Favorite term used by green | | | | garment or fabric to soften and distress it. |
| washers. | | | | Satin Washed: Another term for silicone washed, |
| Egyptian Cotton: Cotton produced in Egypt and | | | | which produces a very smooth and soft finish to |
| valued for its long length of fiber. Apparel made with | | | | fabric, and also gives the fabric good draping |
| true Egyptian cotton is prized for its softness and | | | | properties. |
| fineness. | | | | Scoop Neck: Wide, gently curved neckline that varies |
| Environmental Justice Foundation: A registered charity | | | | in depth. Favored in women's shirts. |
| established in 2000 to help people who suffer most | | | | Sheer Jersey: Very light weight jersey knit, weighing |
| from environmental abuses such as pesticide | | | | about 3.9 ounces per yard. A little stretchier than fine |
| poisoning, water depletion, and soil destruction. | | | | jersey. |
| Especially active in curbing abuses in cotton farming. | | | | Shoulder to Shoulder Tape: A thin strip of fabric |
| Enzyme Washed: A wash process using special | | | | sewn over the seam running across the shoulders |
| enzymes to produce a soft finish and smooth look to | | | | and neck area. It covers the seam and looks better |
| a fabric. Ages dyes to create a special look to dyed | | | | than an exposed stitch. |
| fabrics. Enzyme washing is physically less harsh on the | | | | Shrinkage: Usually refers to cotton apparel and the |
| fabric compared to stone washing. | | | | amount it can be expected to shrink. Most cotton |
| European Cut: A style of t-shirt that is narrower than | | | | t-shirts are pre-shrunk, but 4-5% shrinkage can still |
| what one normally finds. For example, a full cut men's | | | | be expected. |
| t-shirt, size large, usually runs 22 inches across the | | | | Side Seamed: Refers to shirts with a seam running |
| chest (measured one inch below the sleeve). A men's | | | | down at each side under the arm sleeves to the |
| large European cut will run about half an inch to 1 inch | | | | bottom hem. Side seamed t-shirts are more |
| narrower, sometimes more. | | | | expensive to manufacture. |
| Fabric Dyed: Fabric dyed before being cut and sewn | | | | Silicone Washed: Refers to using inert silicone in a |
| into a finished piece of clothing. | | | | washing process. Produces a very smooth and soft |
| Fair Labor Association: A nonprofit organization | | | | finish to fabric, and also gives the fabric good draping |
| dedicated to ending sweatshop conditions in factories | | | | properties. |
| worldwide. Works to develop Code of Labor | | | | Singlet: another term for a men's tank top. |
| Practices, especially important in the apparel business | | | | Slim Cut: A style of t-shirt that is narrower than what |
| where working conditions have historically been so | | | | one normally finds. For example, a full cut men's |
| poor. | | | | t-shirt, size large, usually runs 22 inches across the |
| Fair Wear Foundation: An international group | | | | chest (measured one inch below the sleeve). A slim |
| dedicated to enhancing garment workers' lives all | | | | cut will run about half an inch to 1 inch narrower, |
| over the world. Works with companies that produce | | | | sometimes more. |
| clothing and other sewn products and that take | | | | Stonewashed: A washing process that uses lava |
| responsibility for their supply chain. | | | | rocks or sometimes silicon and rubber balls. This |
| Fine Cotton Jersey: Knitted, very slightly stretchy | | | | method makes fabric softer and gives it an aged or |
| fabric with a smooth flat face and a more textured | | | | distressed look. Sometimes bleach is used in this |
| but uniform back. Fine cotton jersey is usually | | | | process. |
| smoother and has a lighter weight per yard than | | | | Tank Top: T-Shirt characterized by thin shoulder |
| regular cotton jersey. T-shirts made with fine cotton | | | | straps and no sleeves. The name came from the |
| jersey have a better drape and feel than regular | | | | early term for swimming pools: swimming tanks. |
| t-shirts. Usually made with 30s and higher cotton | | | | Taped Seam: Not actual "tape," but a thin strip of |
| thread, and weighs about 4.3 ounces per square yard. | | | | fabric sewn over the seam running across the |
| Fitted Cut: Definitions vary, but generally a fitted cut | | | | shoulders and neck area of t-shirts. It covers the |
| refers to a cut that flatters the body. Used often in | | | | seam and looks better than an exposed stitch. |
| women's t-shirts, the middle section of the shirt will | | | | Tubular Style:A style that has no side seams; the |
| be tighter than the top or bottom. Overall, the shirts | | | | body of the t-shirt is round and straight. Tubular |
| run narrower than a basic full cut. | | | | t-shirts are less expensive to manufacture, and make |
| Full Cut: A generous, roomy cut. In t-shirts, tubular | | | | up the bulk of the cheaper t-shirts. |
| styles are generally considered full-cut, but there are | | | | Unisex T-Shirt: No standard definition exists for a |
| exceptions. Full Cut differs from the slimmer | | | | unisex t-shirt, but generally speaking a unisex t-shirt is |
| European Cuts, Slim Cuts, and Fitted Cuts. | | | | made of lighter weight, fine cotton jersey, side |
| Garment Dyed: Clothing dyed after it has been cut | | | | seamed, and not cut as full as a regular men's t-shirt. |
| and sewn into a finished article of clothing. | | | | The sleeves are not extra short, like cap sleeves, but |
| Garment Washed: A process where finished articles | | | | are not full elbow lengths either. The body length is |
| of clothing are washed, usually with added softeners | | | | usually medium/long. However, there are wide |
| to improve the feel and look of the fabric. | | | | variations in unisex t-shirts, depending on the |
| GMO Free: GMO stands for Genetically Modified | | | | manufacturer. |
| Organisms. First used in the 1990s when consumers | | | | Uzbekistan: Former U.S.S.R. satellite that became |
| became worried about genetically modified food. | | | | independent in 1991 and is notorious for its cotton |
| Many companies now apply the GMO free label on | | | | production methods, which include forced child labor |
| everything from food to natural fabrics, like cotton. | | | | and environmentally destructive practices. Ethical |
| GOTS: Stands for Global Organic Textile Standard. A | | | | apparel companies boycott Uzbekistan cotton; |
| project of the International Working Group. They | | | | however, many companies don't care and have |
| have developed standards to ensure organic status | | | | refused to join in the boycott because Uzbekistan |
| of textiles, from the harvesting, manufacturing, and | | | | cotton is cheap. |
| labeling, in order to provide a credible assurance to | | | | V -Neck: Inverted triangle style of neckline. Can be |
| the end consumer. An organic t-shirt that meets the | | | | deep or shallow, depending on the style. Usually |
| standards can be GOTS certified. | | | | favored by women, but a shallow style v-neck is |
| Green: Generic term used by marketing gurus to | | | | popular among men. |
| promote products. Another favorite term of | | | | Viscose: Typically another name for rayon, as in |
| "green-washers," who are hopping on the | | | | viscose rayon. |
| environmental bandwagon without any real | | | | Weight: Usually expressed ounces per square yard. A |
| commitment. | | | | 5.5 ounce weight cotton fabric means that one |
| Green-Washing: Take off on the term | | | | square yard will weigh 5.5 ounces. Fine jersey cotton |
| "white-washing," but in an environmental context. | | | | fabrics usually have lighter weights, while coarser |
| Companies that green-wash are paying lip-service to | | | | cotton fabrics have heavier weights. |
| environmental concerns to attract more business, but | | | | |